Bouldering Maine
Bouldering Maine is a special breed of people. We have scoured the cliffs and hills of Maine looking for the elusive glacial erratic. The Random boulder in the woods, the special unique line that we have only been dreaming of. It exists if we believe hard enough and dream hard enough. The challenge comes if we want to send hard enough.
The places covered in this article are just the tip of the iceberg as far is climbing in maine go’s. There are more remote cliffs, rock formations and unknown areas that are just waiting for the lonely climber to make a dent in the formations that are scattered through the woods of maine. We are some of the lucky ones that get to experience the gems that we find.
Camden Maine
Camden maine is one of the up and coming areas. We have recently published a guidebook by Mike Lee. Who has come to identify some of the more prestiges line scattered throughout the hills of Camden. From the Hot Spot that contains some of the most classic routs that Camden has to offer and has been created by some local to really showcase what bouldering in Camden could look like. To the classic Balance rock on fernalds neck. That has been scampered on for generations by locals and tourist allike. The potential for more boulders in these parts is endless. We still have not taped into the area below ocean lookout or the boulders at the base of Ragged Moutain.
Acadia national park
From Great head to Gotham Moutain. Some of the places I started climbing at are still so accessible to the average climber. I started bouldering here. It holds some space in my heart that will always be there. Some good friends made a superb website that showcases a lot of these cliffs you can check out their website here.
Monument cove is a classic area for boulders. I used to just come with my shoes and a chalk bag and wonder across the travers over and over again with the ocean breaking behind me. It made for a perfect way to get my climbing fix with less consequences and monetary investment in the first place.
Great head has some of the most classic boulders in acadia national park. I would argue the whole state, Center line is classic maine climbing at its best with full body aggression and heal toe cams, powerful bumps and a mindset of pure endurance.
Gorham mtn has another great travers that allows the budding climber to get their fix without the expense. I would wonder up here on my days off from College of the Atlantic and continually try to travers the cliff. It’s no give me as it has some harder routs as well. But it give the boulder something to think about.
There are a couple other areas worth mentioning. Precious area, Canada cliffs, beach Moutain and 45 degree. All also amazing spots but are a bit more challenging with harder V7+ routs.
