Rock Climbing western maine
Rock Climbing western Maine is untaped beauty is off the Beaton path with the crowds kept to the coast of Maine during the summer. These Back road Climbing destinations can be accessed fairly easily and have many Gems that are still in need of discovery for the avid climber.
Graphton Notch State Park
A little gem of a climbing area. Originally created by Outward Bound Hurricane Island. This area can be tricky to find. But once discovered it can be a home town crag for the best of them. The Notch is beautiful and also offers a variety of winter ice climbing. 80+ feet of hollow thin ice on the west side and thick (WI3,3+) 40+ feet of ice on the east side of the Notch. The thick stuff is practically on the road and has lots of ways up it. The hollow ice section has no pro and is steeper. This section may get thicker depending on yearly conditions. This can be a wild adventure in the summer and winter with remote spots that can get your Juices going!
Tumble down Mt.
Tumbledown Mt. is not a true Alpine condition mountain but it is not an off the road excursion either. For a good adventure that allows the budding alpinist to sharpen their teeth on an adventure that could send them back to the single pitch crag. Summer climbing should always be safe from alpine conditions because the summit is in the 3000ft range and bad weather approaching can be seen at a great distance. The rest of the year climbers should be prepared for the worst weather possible. Because of its location the environment is similar to the N.H. White Mountains environment before above tree line and above Cannon Cliff. These adventurous routs always have the punch of a run out slab high in the alpine. Bring your A game and a sense of adventure.
Shell Pond
This hidden gem is a hike and a half to get into. But if you're a budding sport climber looking to get away from the crowds of Rummney or away from any off the road sport area. Bring your A game though these routs are no joke. With run out bolting and heads up 5.10’s Its a read not for the faint of heart. It’s meant to challenge you in ways that you never thought to be possible.
Tumble Down Dick
Tumbledown Dick Mtn. offers some of the best climbing in the Bethel region on high quality metamorphic schist. With numerous routes rated 5.10 & under, a sunny aspect, and short approach Tumbledown Dick Mtn. is a worthy destination for those looking to explore the climbing opportunities in Western Maine.
Recently the Conservation Fund purchased the land that includes Tumbledown Dick Mtn. from the Chadbourne family, who have stewarded the area and allowed public access for multiple generations. With this transfer comes an opportunity for long term conservation and public access
Jocky Cap
A granite dome right off the road in down town Fryeburg Maine. The bouldering is scattered at its base and is not anything to write home about. It also offers sport & trad climbing. Park at the Dollar General store and hike back about 100 yards into the woods. The area is more frequented by families out hiking than hardcore climbers, but the quality granite, albeit limited, is worth the visit. Plenty of top ropable sites on the left side that can be accessed from the top.
Information gathered from Moutain project.
