The Verticals — Camden Hills Rock Climbing Guide

The Verticals Camden

Overview

The Verticals is one of Camden’s most unique climbing areas. While Barrett’s Cove is known for its classic slab and traditional climbing, the Verticals offers something different: steep, technical climbing on small holds, precise movement, and short powerful sequences.

Located just left of Barrett’s Cove Cliff, this compact wall overlooks the Camden area and has become one of the best training grounds in the Camden Hills. It is a place where climbers come to refine movement, work harder grades, and build confidence before stepping onto larger objectives.

The Verticals is not a huge cliff, but it has a lot packed into a small space. The climbing ranges from approachable moderates to some of Camden’s hardest sport routes. It is one of the best places in the area to learn how to climb steeper rock.

Approach

The Verticals can be reached from either the Barrett’s Cove area or from the Maiden Cliff trail system.

The most common approach is to hike toward Barrett’s, continue up the stream drainage, and then branch left toward the cliff. The final approach involves some scrambling and uneven terrain. The cliff is short, but the approach still feels very Camden — a little adventurous and not completely manicured.

Because the cliff edge has seen erosion over the years, climbers should stay on established paths and avoid creating new trails.

Route Descriptions

Routes are described left to right.

Armistice

5.7 | Trad

Located on a separate wall left of the main Verticals face.

A short traditional route following an obvious finger crack. While not part of the main wall, it is worth mentioning as a nice little independent pitch and a good reminder that Camden has climbing tucked into unexpected places.

Main Verticals Wall

Under the Gun

5.10b | Sport

The leftmost route on the main wall and a great introduction to the character of the Verticals.

Following the arête on the far left side of the cliff, Under the Gun combines technical face climbing with steeper movement higher up. It is a good route for climbers transitioning into harder grades because it requires more thought than strength.

A very “Verticals” route.

Clash of the Tendons

5.12a/b | Sport

One of the harder testpieces on the cliff.

Climbs thin, technical terrain with demanding movement between small holds. This is not a route where pulling harder solves the problem — it rewards precision, body positioning, and patience.

A true benchmark route for the wall.

Chalk on the Wild Side

5.11b R | Trad / TR

A more serious route that shows the traditional side of the Verticals.

Thin, sustained climbing leads to a more thoughtful protection situation. The route is a good example of Camden’s older climbing style: the grade might not look intimidating, but the experience level required matters.

A route for climbers who enjoy technical climbing and managing uncertainty.

Brown Eye

5.10c R | Sport / TR

One of the absolute classics of the Verticals.

Brown Eye is a beautiful technical face climb on small edges and thoughtful movement. The route has many bolts, but it still maintains a little bit of the old Camden feeling — you need to climb between them.

This is not a strength route. It is about reading the rock, trusting your feet, and staying relaxed.

One of the best examples of Camden face climbing.

Brown Eyed Girl

5.10a | Sport

A newer companion route in the Brown Eye area.

A great option for climbers developing into steeper terrain. It has the same technical character as Brown Eye but is a little more approachable, making it a good stepping stone for climbers building confidence.

Diagonal Crack

5.9+ R | Trad / TR

A traditional line cutting diagonally through the middle of the wall.

The climbing is technical and sustained, with the main challenge being managing the crack system and finding thoughtful protection. Like many Camden routes, the grade does not tell the entire story.

A good route for climbers looking to practice traditional movement on steeper terrain.

Dirty Harry

5.11a | Sport

One of the classic harder routes on the wall.

Dirty Harry climbs technical face terrain with sustained movement. It represents what makes the Verticals special: short, powerful, and requiring good movement rather than just strength.

The name has become part of Camden climbing history — the cliff has always had a slightly rough-around-the-edges character, and this route fits that personality.

500 Pound Flakeout

5.7+ | Trad / TR

A true Camden classic.

The large flaring crack feature makes this route immediately recognizable. While the grade is moderate, the movement is interesting and the route has a lot of character.

A great introduction to the Verticals and a climb that remains enjoyable even for experienced climbers.

Stopper Dropper

5.9 | Trad

A route with an interesting history.

This climb has seen plenty of top-rope activity over the years, and like many local Camden routes, the complete history is a little complicated. The climbing itself is worthwhile: technical, interesting, and a good example of the mixed style that exists at the Verticals.

Rather than focusing on who “first” climbed it, the route is best appreciated as part of the cliff’s evolution.

The Bolt Ladder

5.9 | Sport

One of the most historically interesting routes at the Verticals.

The route has changed over time as bolts and anchors have been modified, reflecting the ongoing conversation in Camden about how climbing areas evolve. Originally a more mixed experience, it has become one of the better-known sport routes on the wall.

A fun route and an important part of the cliff’s history.

Trash Talk

5.11a | Sport

Located to the right of Bolt Ladder.

A harder, steeper route that adds another challenge to the right side of the cliff. Short, powerful, and a good option for climbers looking for more difficult movement.

Deception

5.10a | Mixed

A more isolated route on the right side of the cliff.

Deception feels different from the central wall — more independent, a little quieter, and a nice change of pace. A good route for climbers looking for a mixed experience rather than pure sport climbing.

Why Climb The Verticals?

The Verticals is not Camden’s biggest cliff.

It is not where you go for huge views or long multipitch adventures.

You go there because it teaches you how to climb.

It teaches:

  • better footwork

  • better movement

  • confidence on steep terrain

  • patience on small holds

  • how to project and improve

For many climbers in Camden, the Verticals has been a classroom.

That is what makes it special.

Noah Kleiner

Owner and lead guide of Equinox Guiding service

https://www.Equinoxguidingservice.com
Next
Next

Equinox Guiding Service Featured in Portland Press Herald