Rock Climb Katahdin
Rock climb Katahdin
Multipitch rock route is adventure for the climber looking to challenge themselves on Alpine Rock climbing that is exciting and exhilarating. Tackling this challenge of climbing on the greatest Moutain in new England can be one of the highlights of any climbers career. this commitment of climbing is always an adventure with winds whipping around, wether moving in and out the exposure of breathing crisp alpine air brings it all together with one experience that changes the perspective of what you are capable of.
I’ve had the most fun on katadin at some of the most extraordinary points in my career as a guide and climber. Its pushed me to be willing to take on the Moutain and challenges of mental fortitude in ways I thought I was not capable of.
The Armadillo
has just about everything you could hope for in an alpine climb: Chimney climbing, face climbing, crack climbing, ridge climbing, big time exposure, solitude on the route mixed with gawking, awed filled hikers at the top.This route climbs at least 6 pitches of the huge pyramid and ridge in the middle of the south basin to the rim of the mountain, 10 minutes from Baxter Peak.
Climbing this beast of a rout has many challenges.
First: The weather is the biggest. Unpredictable and uncertain at best, this challenge is a process of letting go. allow the Pemolola to let us pass or shut us down. The great myth of the Moutain is part of the path through the labyrinth of weather.
Second: technical challenge is just the approach. Getting the the bast of The Armadillo is the crux of the whole climb and has shut down many a guided party in search of the base of the rout.
Third: The logistics of getting in are always a challenge as well. the park has the whole place on lock down logistically mostly so they can Controll and know who is going in and out of the park. It’s really hard to get a lean-to at chimney let alone a parking spot at roaring brook.
These technical challenges are one reason its best to hire a guide!
Once on the ledge:
The first pitch is just a traverse into the climb. with an exposed move around a couple of boulders. I’m sure this move has turned away a few parts over the years since it is big right off the bat.
The second pitch go’s up a large chimney with fun stem moves and the occasional lyback. This is usually the pitch that remains wet even when you think its been dry as a bone for months. This pitch brings you to the face.
The Third pitch: With the exposer smacking you in the face like a ton of bricks. it brings you into the alpine and some fun 5.6 moves in a thin crack, clipping an old piton and running it out the the ledge at the top of the rock pile.
The Fourth: and last technical pick is a large wide crack. Recommend a number 4 Camelot. their is an old bong to clip on your way by the provides some confidence. this pitch go’s at 5.7 and is the money pitch with fun face climbing or off with climbing if that is more your style. When the crack runs out build a anchor before casting off into the great unknown. I’ve hear people going right from here i’ve hear people going left. Basically you're trying to get to the ridge as fast as you can. Once routed the ridge its fourth class terrain that can be pitched out as needed.
Once on the ridge it's a short stroll to the summit with 360 views of Hamlin peak surrounded maine north woods. Its a spectacular finish to see the threw hikers hiking the Application trail finishing on this mile high Moutain. Knowing that the alternative way to hiking is climbing is always a pleasure to see some faces turn when we stash the ropes and helmets away.
In a lot of ways this climb and location is spectacular and is a must do for any maine climber.
