Rock Climbing in Maine: Camden Hills

When you think of Rock Climbing in Maine what probably comes to mind are the beautiful seaside cliffs of  Acadia National Park.  As the only place in the US where you can hang from a jug on the literal edge of the continent while being engulfed by the crisp ocean spray, Otter Cliffs should definitely have a place on every climber's bucket list.

However, with the growing popularity of the sport, and the outdoors in general, Maine is seeing more and more visitors each year, with many of them finding their way up to Bar Harbor. Gaining entrance to the park can be difficult during the busy season requiring reservations to be made well in advance.  Once you get there, you may find that you’re sharing the crag with multiple guide services, other climbers, and droves of curious onlookers.

For those looking to avoid the crowds while enjoying some high-quality climbing and a bit of peace and quiet, Camden Hills State Park offers a great alternative.

Located in the stunning Midcoast region of Maine, less than 2 hours drive from Portland, the cliffs around Camden offer breathtaking views and a wide variety of routes suitable for beginner to advanced climbers.  And best of all, with a half dozen or so different cliffs in the area, you and your friends can find a quiet spot that’ll make you feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself!

The History of Climbing In Camden

Much of the history of climbing in Camden Hills has been lost to the ages.  Preserved only in stories of the old-time local climbers, their details dwindle with the fading embers of the campfires around which they’re told.

It is believed that many of the more accessible routes were first climbed as early as the 1940s. Significant developments were made in the following decades, notably those made by Geoff Heath, Dave Getchell Sr., and Dave Gethell Jr., who in the mid-'70s tackled virtually all of the most difficult ice climbs in the area, many of which have yet to see a second ascent.

In the 1990s John  Weaver and Peter Beal helped to usher in an early wave of sport climbing development in the area.  Folks like Ben Townsend, Alan Reese, Dorcas Miller, Sandor Naggy, Russ Johnson, and Jerry Cinnamon continued putting up routes throughout the following years.

Today, Camden Hills State Park is managed by the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands which works in cooperation with the small but active local climbing community to maintain the area.  Some of the climbs you’ll find in the guidebook and on Mountain Project are located on the Town of Camden Recreational Lands or private property.  Please be respectful of any posted rules and regulations and be sure to practice Leave No Trace principles during your visit to ensure that your fellow climbers can continue to enjoy access to the area.

Barrett’s Cove Cliff

Barrett’s Cove Cliff is the prominent feature clearly visible from the road and Barrett’s Cove Public Beach parking lot across the street.  This 250-foot cliff is easily accessible and features some of Camden’s most classic routes.

A short hike up the climber’s trail from the pull-off on Route 52 brings you up to the center of the cliff just below Sidewalk Ledge.  Here you’ll find the start of Clamdigger Crack (5.5), Harmonic Convergence (5.7+), and perhaps the most popular route the crag has to offer, Charlotte’s Crack (5.7).  

All of these routes end on the Broadway Ledge, halfway up the cliff face.  From here you can easily set up top ropes for the climbs on the lower section using the fixed anchors, or link up to one of the routes on Upper Charlotte’s Face and continue to the top.  Be sure to check out Pandora Freeway (5.7) and Upper Charlotte’s (5.7).

A 60m rope will work for the anchors on top of Clamdigger Crack and Harmonic Convergence.  While a 70m is necessary to reach the Sidewalk Ledge from Charlotte’s Crack anchors, there are intermediate anchors halfway down that will allow you to get down with two rappels on a 60m, and also make for a convenient Top Rope set up for the lower half of the route.

A two-bolt anchor at the top of the easy ramp that makes up the first section of Clamdigger Crack also makes for a nice Top Rope setup for beginner climbers.

Lower Main Face

The Lower Main Face is located to the right of the Sidewalk Ledge at ground level.  As you hike up the approach trail, just before reaching the large boulder, look for a trail that veers off to the right, heading up to the base of the wall.

The classic on this face is Poison Ivy (5.5).  This moderate, but extremely fun 150’ long route offers plenty of protection and a variety of climbing styles, making it perfect for the beginning trad leader.  

It starts on the left edge of the wall up a flared corner, then follows an obvious crack system up to an imposing headwall just to the left of a small cedar tree.  A #2 or #3 cam with a long runner in the crack protects the spicey move as you pull up past the small overhang using great hand holds.

From there, continue straight up to the anchor at the far right side of the Broadway ledge.  Two raps with a 60m will get you back to the ground, or you can continue up Slow Children (5.5), to the left of the anchor, or Fourth of July (5.8 R) to the right. 

Lower Right Area

Located at the bottom right of Barrett’s Cove Cliff, this area can be reached from the pull-off on Rte 52 by taking the trail that leads to the right as soon as you enter the woods, or by following the trail at the base of the cliff from the Lower Main Face area.

In the past, this area would often remain quite wet throughout the summer, however, with the drought-like conditions in recent years it dries out quickly. The dense vegetation at the base of the cliff provides a welcome reprise from the summer sun for the belayer in the afternoon, and its close proximity to the road makes it a great spot to bag a few final sends at the end of the day.

At the far left side of the wall, you’ll find the start of Goat Yoga (5.9-, 3 pitches).  You’ll find the crux to be right at the beginning of the first pitch as you pull over the edge of the overhanging headwall.  From there you’ll wander your way through the rolling slabs up to the bolted anchors 15 feet to the left of the large pine tree at the top of pitch 3.  You can then walk off to the right, rap down the route with a 70m rope, or continue up to the top of the cliff via Witchy Woman or Tritum Witch.

In the middle of the cliff, just to the left of the big overhang a couple of feet off the ground is the start of Jack-in-the-Pulpit, a fun 5.7 with lots of gear options for the beginning trad leader.  

Continue right, to the end of the wall to find Together Through Life (5.6).  A favorite among the guides at Equinox Guiding Service, this is the perfect cool-down climb, complete with stainless steel wire gate carabiners at the anchor for a quick and convenient lower-off at the end of the day.

The Verticals

Located left of Barrett’s Cove Cliff, The Verticals is the place to go for those looking for some harder climbs on vertical (hence the name) terrain.  To get there, follow the climber's trail to the left at the bottom of Barrett’s, past the main cliff face, and up the steep creek bed. Cut left once it levels out and follow the trail to reach the top of The Verticles.

Top Ropes can easily be set on a variety of routes ranging from 5.7 - 5.12.  Rap down to the large, shaded ledge below and enjoy the climbing!  You can either top out and walk back down the trail, or rap down the steep gully from the anchors located at the far left side of the ledge and follow the trail down to the Maiden Cliff parking lot.

Parking

Park in the paved pull-off on Route 52, just east of the Maiden Cliff parking lot. A large patch of sand marks the start of the approach trail.

You can also park across the street in the Barrett’s Cove Public Beach parking lot on Beaucaire Road.  Although it gets quite busy in the summer, the beach has barbeques and picnic tables available for public use, as well as porta-potty facilities.  There’s no better way to end a hard day of climbing than by cooling off with a dip in the refreshing waters of lake Megunticook!

Resources

While the descriptions above feature some of the most popular and easily accessible climbing areas in Camden Hills, it really just scratches the surface.  There are many more crags to be explored.

For more information on Rock Climbing in Camden, pick up a copy of the local guidebook “Rock And Ice Climbs In The Camden Hills” by Ben Townsend and Alan Rees, available at Maine Sport Outfitters in Rockland.

Guided Rock Climbing in Camden

Equinox Guiding Service offers guided rock climbing trips and classes in Camden Hills for individuals and groups, of all ages and abilities.  Whether you’re an avid climber, or just looking for a fun day outdoors, our experienced guides will help you get the most out of your Maine climbing adventure!