Barrett’s Cove Cliff: The Ultimate Climbing Guide
Barrett’s Cove Cliff, located in the scenic Camden Hills of Maine, is one of the region’s premier climbing destinations. With its unique schist and gneiss formations, varied climbing routes, and breathtaking views of Megunticook Lake and beyond, this cliff offers something for climbers of all skill levels. Whether you’re into traditional climbing, sport climbing, or even mixed routes, Barrett’s Cove has you covered.
Barrett’s Cove is the most popular climbing area in Camden, known for its classic slabby trad climbs and spectacular scenery. This 250-foot cliff is southeast-facing, making it a sunny spot, especially in the summer months. It’s an excellent choice for climbers looking to hone their trad skills or enjoy bold ice climbs in winter.
Getting There
• Parking: From Camden, head north on Route 52 for approximately 2.7 miles. Look for a paved pull-off directly under the cliff. Alternatively, there’s a gravel lot for Maiden Cliff trailhead about 100 yards further.
• Coordinates:
• Barrett’s Cove pull-off: 44.245393, -69.085092
• Maiden Cliff trailhead: 44.247053, -69.087495
Approach
From the parking pull-off, follow the climber’s path that begins midway along the paved lot. The trail forks at the top, leading to:
• Left Fork: Sidewalk Ledge (for Charlotte’s Crack and neighboring climbs).
• Right Fork: Heathrow Face (for climbs on the lower right section of the cliff).
Approach time is about 10 minutes.
Climbing Highlights
Barrett’s Cove is divided into several sections, with routes generally described from left to right. Below are some of the must-try climbs:
1. Charlotte’s Crack (5.7)
One of the most popular routes at Barrett’s Cove, Charlotte’s Crack is a trad classic.
• Pitch 1: Face climbing leads to a ledge with a pine and oak (5.5).
• Pitch 2: A left-leaning crack with stemming and small roof sections (5.7).
• Anchor: Bolted at the top of the second pitch.
2. After Seven (5.10c)
A challenging route on Jerry’s Wall.
• Description: Scramble to a small roof, pull through it, and face climb to a mantle finish.
• Anchor: Bolted out left; be careful not to miss it.
3. Independence Day (5.7+)
A thin crack climb with technical moves near the top.
• Gear: Standard rack with emphasis on small to medium cams.
• Anchor: Shared with Bob’s Route.
4. Hotel California (5.10b)
This three-pitch adventure offers varied climbing.
• Pitch 1: A moderate chimney and slab (5.6).
• Pitch 2: A vertical crack system (5.9+).
• Pitch 3: A steep, broken crack with overhangs (5.10b).
5. The Raw and the Cooked (5.10+)
A steep slab climb with a technical crux finish.
• Gear: Bring Tricams for directionals to prevent top-rope swing.
Ice Climbing at Barrett’s Cove
In winter, Barrett’s Cove transforms into a playground for ice climbers. Routes like Hollywood Waltz (NEI 4) and Pharaoh’s Beard (NEI 3) provide technical challenges for experienced climbers. The thin, mixed ice and rock routes require a creative approach to gear placement and climbing technique.
Top Tips for Climbers
• Gear: A standard Camden rack includes C4 Camalots (sizes .3 to #3), #3-13 nuts, and Tricams. Bring extra small cams and thin gear for delicate placements.
• Rope: A 70m rope is recommended, though a 60m can suffice with caution.
• Sun Protection: The southeast-facing rock heats up quickly, so start early in summer.
Etiquette and Conservation
• Stick to established trails to minimize erosion.
• Keep noise levels down to respect other climbers and wildlife.
• Avoid disturbing nesting birds, particularly peregrine falcons in spring.
• Follow Leave No Trace principles.
Barrett’s Cove Cliff is a gem of the Camden Hills climbing scene, offering diverse routes and challenges against a stunning backdrop. Whether you’re a seasoned trad climber or looking to explore Maine’s unique climbing opportunities, Barrett’s Cove has something special for everyone.
